Why Boggie Board in Hurricane Jose's surf?

It was too windy to surf at Squibnocket but with a boggie board you can have fun in pretty chaotic surf.  Before going out it sure seems like a crazy idea and the water looks cold and uninviting. 



But, of course, there is the whole question of "Who am I?"  What is my self image?  I've been out playing in storms most of my adult life.  I don't want to stop.  But I also don't want to be stupid.  I study the waves and wind and currents before going out.  I also like my strong, lightweight, orange helmet.

    So I force myself to give it a try because I'm pretty damn sure that once I'm out there it will be exciting and fun and in the end I'll be glad I went. 



Turned out to be the case.  The strange thing is that I have been having trouble with pain from the stenosis in my lower back.  Somehow getting tumbled in the surf seems to give a really nice deep tissue massage and I've been pain free since going out this afternoon.  How I feel tomorrow may be another story.  We shall see.