Thursday, September 28, 2017

Boogie Boarding Squibnocket on nice Hurricane Maria swells

           Some nice big surf from hurricane Maria at Squibnocket.  Long rides on my boogie board.  Sure didn't feel 73 during those rides.  It doesn't look it with the wide angle video, but the faces of those waves were 6' to 8' high.

On Tuesday I went out on my surf board and was quickly humbled by the big waves.  My legs just didn't want to work fast enough to scramble up quickly when after paddling like mad the board suddenly is picked up by the wave and starts sliding down it on a plane.  So I went and played in the smaller inner break.

    On Wednesday I switched to my boogie board and fins.  I feel much more comfortable on my boogie board and not scared like I am on the surf board.

Wednesday, September 20, 2017

Why Boggie Board in Hurricane Jose's surf?

It was too windy to surf at Squibnocket but with a boggie board you can have fun in pretty chaotic surf.  Before going out it sure seems like a crazy idea and the water looks cold and uninviting. 

But, of course, there is the whole question of "Who am I?"  What is my self image?  I've been out playing in storms most of my adult life.  I don't want to stop.  But I also don't want to be stupid.  I study the waves and wind and currents before going out.  I also like my strong, lightweight, orange helmet.

    So I force myself to give it a try because I'm pretty damn sure that once I'm out there it will be exciting and fun and in the end I'll be glad I went. 

Turned out to be the case.  The strange thing is that I have been having trouble with pain from the stenosis in my lower back.  Somehow getting tumbled in the surf seems to give a really nice deep tissue massage and I've been pain free since going out this afternoon.  How I feel tomorrow may be another story.  We shall see.