Body surfing at Squibnocket chilled me out

I have felt tired all day, even though I had a good night's sleep and took a three hour nap. It was a good day for it as it poured rain until late in the afternoon. But when I still had heavy bags under my eyes, I decided I had to do something to get my heart pumping and the blood flowing so I grabbed my thin Hawaiian wetsuit and went to Squibnocket. The wind had clocked around and was blowing off shore. The swell from Tropical Storm Danny had finally arrived. The parking lot was full of surfers. I realized that I had forgotten my fins, but decided to just go out and play in the surf and catch what I could. I had fun, got cold, and lost the heavy feeling under my eyes.

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JV 50 Christmas Special 2002 ©